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Sunday, March 25, 2012

Istanbul - where the streets have no name

Istanbul is probably one of the best cities in Europe. There I've said it. No hanging around. No quibbling. Never again can I be accused of sitting on the fence.

Nevertheless, even possible greatness has to be undermined by something and the city formerly known as Constantinople succumbs to such occurrences.

So let's get them out of the way now. Firstly, quality does come at a price, especially if you want to eat by the water. Not quite on the same level as a Moscow or a Tokyo but, still, on occasion, you will have an expensive bill manipulated by mischievous waiters.

Furthermore, Istanbul is full of 'Del Boy' characters shouting out how great their product is and encouraging you to dig deeper into an already severely dented wallet. Sadly, these people are not selling faulty watches but are dragging, sometimes literally, people into their eatery with what turn out to be false promises.

OK, so that's the negatives so let's get on with the positives. The place is beautiful, almost serene at times, particularly in summer as the sun glistens on the Bosphorus, Istanbul's famous river that separates Europe from Asia. By all means take a tour on a boat for an hour or two as it is relatively inexpensive and a great way to see more of the city.

The fact that the most of there streets appear to be nameless will soon be forgotten as you wander the streets. Once you've settled on your restaurant, you will not be disappointed, especially if you chose a rooftop location where you can eat, drink, smoke a shisha and enjoy the star-lit sky (n.b. always ask for a free bowl of fruit and you'll almost certainly get it).

Something that will not escape your attention during your visit will be the occasional drone of noise coming from the mosques, presumably at prayer time. However, I found the sound created a strangely mixed feeling - one of enchantment and of being disturbed.

Nevertheless, once inside a mosque, you will delight in its splendour. It put me in a state of extreme relaxation, so much so I eventually snoozed off, prostrate. When awoken by a security guard I was told I must make a quick exit. When I suggested I was not the only person asleep and queried why they were not being subjected to the same punishment I was informed they were praying. Damn! Why didn't I think of that first?